Guide to Kenya

Beaches

When it comes to beaches, Kenya's in a class of its own. It may sound like a cliche, but they really are snapshots of paradise. All across the country the same scene awaits – white sands, clear seas, and never-ending palm trees. But look beyond the surface and you'll see each one has its own individual style. Diani's coast attracts a lively crowd that flocks here for the energetic atmosphere and endless places to eat. On the flipside, Tiwi Beach has a real desert island vibe. There's hardly a soul in sight – it's just you and the waves. The only hint at civilisation is the odd beach bar, but that's pretty much it. Equally striking are the popular shores of Malindi and Watamu, both of which have top-notch marine reserves. And Lamu Island's pretty popular, too. The name that seems to be on everyone's lips, though, is Kiwayu. This place has long been the hush-hush getaway for the rich and famous who like a bit of privacy with their suntan. The list of visitors reads like an A-list Oscar party, with the likes of Eddie Murphy and Naomi Campbell renting places on the shore. But if there's one thing that all these places have in common, it's watersports. The calm waters are ideal conditions for sailing, windsurfing and, particularly, diving. All manner of fluorescent fish and coral live below the seas, which can be seen as clear as day.

Eating out

Food's a big thing in Kenya – and there's no shortage of places to eat. It all depends on what you fancy. To eat like a local, follow your nose to some of the roadside stalls. This may not appeal at first but the food's delicious and an empty stomach's filled for next to nothing. These kinds of stalls are scattered all over the country, but the most popular are based in Nairobi's Karikor Market. The likes of rump steak, sweet meats and corn cobs are slapped onto an open charcoal fire and grilled to perfection. Of course, there's a flipside to this style of meal. Kenya's home to plenty of restaurants, whether you're in the capital or beachside resorts like Lamu and Malindi. The menus are jam-packed with the two staples of Kenyan cuisine – freshly caught seafood and succulent meat. On the fish front, you can expect the likes of red snapper, rock cod and sea bream to make an appearance. Meat eaters tend to walk on the wild side, with a few delicacies you won't find in Tesco's. Alongside pork, chicken and beef are zebra, crocodile and even gazelle. You won't find them in every eatery, so you'll need to do a bit of digging. Nairobi's got some good restaurants where the food's as wild as it gets. And last but not least, the finer side of Kenyan dining. Surprisingly, the country has its fair share of a la carte restaurants. You'll find a few in the big places like Nairobi and Mombassa, as well as in the hotels around Diani and Malindi.

Tamarind, Mombasa – Seafood lovers will think they've died and gone to heaven. You've officially died and gone to heaven. From baked salmon in champagne to cracked lobster Swahili-style, it's an A-list menu of ocean fare.

Carnivore Restaurant, Nairobi – This open-air meat specialist has to be seen to be believed. Every meat imaginable, including crocodile and zebra, is roasted on traditional Masai swords over a huge charcoal pit.

Peponi's, Lamu – Sitting under a trellis of bougainvillea, this stylish restaurant overlooks the ocean, where you'll see fishermen dragging in their nets. Try the Swahili menu for something special and eat your food on the floor around a large brass platter.

Lord Erroll, Nairobi – Tucked away in the leafy suburbs, outdoor tables are elegantly dressed with white linen and shiny silverware. A la carte dishes have a French twist, while the Sunday lunch menu has a succulent buffet accompanied by a pianist.

Moorings Restaurant, Malindi – This floating restaurant's definitely got the wow factor. Sitting in the middle of a river, you can enjoy freshly caught seafood with a fabulous view. Dine in the thatch roofed hut, or hop into a traditional dhow to enjoy your meal.

Nightlife

• Although you can catch some pretty good shows inside your hotel, the real Kenya lies outside the front gates. Beyond the dusty roads are plenty of bars and clubs that stay swinging 'til sun up, especially in the city centre. Mombassa's got more than enough nightspots to see, and after dark the streets fill up with people darting in and out of the bars that pumping out reggae. But here there's really only one word on everyone's lips – Tembo Club. This open-air hotspot's long been a favourite. Why? It offers the best of both worlds. You can chill inside with a few drinks in a quiet corner, or head outside and shake your stuff to the traditional beats and good old-fashioned house tunes. For a change of scenery, head south to Nyali Beach's Mamba Crocodile Village. It's not as loud and proud as Tembo, but it's got a guest list of razor-toothed punters that would love to crash a party given half the chance. But don't worry, they're kept at a safe distance. Of course, you may want to shun conventional nightspots and opt for something more traditional. If so, Nairobi's the one to watch. On the last weekend of the month, lots of the clubs hold cultural nights, where you can tuck into authentic food and slurp Tusker beer.
  
  
• Tembo, Mombasa – This open-air club's hailed as one of the best in Kenya. Not only does it have an impressive quarry setting, but it's also home to one of the best sound systems around.
  
  
• Simba Saloon, Nairobi – If you're more familiar with swanky London clubs, this is the place for you. With three bars and a large dance floor, this is where Kenyan trendsetters come to drink, dance and pout.
  
  
• Casablanca Club, Mombasa – Far more than just a club, this is an entertainment centre. This is the only place in Kenya where you get two clubs for the price of one. Downstairs, take in exotic shows with traditional performers. Upstairs, you can dance the night away to the latest pop and R&B.
  
  
• Pango, Nairobi – Partial to a cocktail or three? This is the place to come. With a cosy, intimate vibe, it's the ideal spot to kick back with a sugary dawa. As you sip your Kenyan creation, you'll be entertained by DJs and all night dancing.
  
  
• Florida 2000 Discotheque, Nairobi – This has long been Nairobi's number one club. The finest DJs around, spin on a booming system and you can groove to a different sound every night of the week. Whether it's soul, techno or traditional Kenyan zilizopendwa, the dancefloor's always full.

Shopping

It's fair to say Kenya's no Milan in the shopping stakes. What it has got, though, are heaps of street sellers, markets and knick knack shops. Whether you're in the big city or strolling along a dusty roadside, you'll be tripping over them. Choose from sarongs, blankets and ceramic pots, or plump for ol' faithful – the wooden carving. These intricate pieces range from small fireplace ornaments to huge masks and towering Makondi figures - just make sure you've got enough space in your suitcase. Head for Mombassa's old town to pick up some of the best crafts. Moi Avenue's chock-a-block with bright canvases, pots and vases. Not to be outdone, Nairobi's Racecourse Road has just as many homemade goodies, but with a slightly higher price tag. Of course, if you really want to shop like a local, you need to get down the markets. These aren't for the faint of heart. They're fast, frantic and jam-packed with shoppers, so you'll need to be on your toes. But dive in and you'll be rewarded with stall upon stall of fresh fruit and vegetables. Nuts and seeds are also popular, along with a truckload of spices, chillies and seasoning. However, don't hand over your shillings just yet. Almost everything can be bartered down, so don't be afraid to go in with a price that's lower than the tag. Kenyan sellers are persistent – so be firm and you'll come away with a bargain.